A collection of recent makes. Most of these require either grading between multiple sizes, or grading beyond the largest size offered on the pattern. There is even one self drafted pattern done using drape methods.
Self drafted shirt pattern, using draping method, with the help of David Coffin’s sew along on facebook. This first is made in a lovely rich brown lightweight linen. The second is made in medium weight linen, which is buttery soft in both color and comfort.
This is my Burda 6714 10 gore skirt, which has a lovely drape. I modified slightly by skipping the elastic and putting in a fixed waist. Done in a swishy light washable wool. Love it! Displayed on my dress form.
Petite Plus Patterns, Flared Skirts by Kathleen Cheetham. This required grading up a bit beyond the largest size waist and hip measurements offered by the pattern. I love the look, and feel of this skirt, and the pockets are both functional and a flattering design choice.
Tina Givens, Maria Tunic which required grading XL bust to 2X waist and hips. I adore Tina Givens designs, and lagenlok apparel. This is my latest attempt. I was swimming in my first attempt, but managed to refine it. So comfortable and flattering in a soft medium weight linen. The bell sleeves make me feel feminine and dressy.
Sure Fit Designs – pants pattern, with fly front, side pockets, and fitted waist band. Pants have been a struggle for me. I have a challenging crotch curve, with large abdomin and large buttocks. I finally have comfortable pants for both sitting and standing. These are made in a soft gray brushed cotton twill with elastic in back waistband for added comfort.
Callie’s Nightgown from Everything your Momma Made. This is a fast and easy make. I tweaked pattern a bit, by closing up the neckline. I also had to draft 1x bust to 3x sleeves and waist and hips. So dreamy to sleep in on cold winter nights.
Daisy tunic from Style Arc. I tweaked the neck and shoulders for a better fit. I made the sleeveless version in a cool light blue cotton perfect for hot summer days. The second make was long sleeve in pink medium weight linen, perfect over pair of leggings.
Chamelon Weekender Dress by Hot Patterns. This jimper can be worn solo, or with a little something under making it multi-seasonal. I love wearing this on errand days.
Well, there comes a time in every quilters life when you find yourself, buried in quilts. This past year I recently downsized and moved and found I had about 3 times as many quilts as I could ever need or store. I have been funneling my efforts more and more into fashion or garment sewing. Pants have eluded me. But, this month, I finally managed to put together a comfortable nice fitting pair of pants, with pockets and a fly front.
Being a short obese older woman, has made finding comfortable fitting pants difficult. I spend much of my time in stretch knit pants when I am home, and in skirts and dresses when I travel out. Ready to wear just does not come close enough to my unique shape. Being from the northeast, I miss the warmth of pants in the winter most of all. So, I started my quest for perfect pants pattern.
I tried several published pants patterns, by the Big 4 pattern companies, and several independent pattern companies, trying to use only patterns that included my waist and hip measurements. But, nothing fit and looked quite right, until I used the Sure Fit Designs system and drafted my own pants pattern. My first muslin was very very close, and my second muslin was wearable.
For the gory details, my measurements are 45″ waist, 55″ high and low high hip, 5’4″ tall, with short inseam, and a very challenging crotch curve. I am intermediate sewist, and this was my very first fly front. I am planning on making my next pair in blue gray twill, and my third pair in a lovely black linen. The thought of comfortable pants in cool and attractive material has me over the moon.
The Sew-A-Longs & Sewing Contests Facebook group has been a constant source of inspiration for me, for the past few months. In January I spent a month, drafting a pattern for a well fitted shirt from scratch. Although I have been reading, watching you tube videos, and taking Craftsy classes, the monthly sew-a-long offered in January was a must do for me. I love the deadline, and David Coffin, was hosting the event, giving feedback and expertise throughout the month. I ended up with a pretty nice shirt. Even more importantly, a pattern which fits me perfectly, and now I have the knowledge needed to transform it into many different items. It has been a very long time since I have had such an empowering and satisfying experience.
Next up for me is a four month long Sew-A-Long which consists of a themed wardrobe containing 8 pieces to be completed between February and May. Details can be found on the group’s Facebook page. So, three weeks in and I was still struggling to put together my game plan. And then it occurred to me, I do not want just a new wardrobe, I want a makeover. I am petite, plus size pear shaped 50+ gray haired old lady. I have never planned a wardrobe in my lifetime. Clothes shopping consisted of finding the correct combination of colors, textures, price, value, and ease of care. Fit was never great for me, so I gave up and tolerated what ready to wear had to offer. I settled for over-sized tops, to fit my over-sized waist, hips, and butt. Shapeless pants that never seem to find my waist, while clinging to my hips and thighs and pooling on the floor. They do not make a pair of pants, stretch or otherwise that does not need multiple adjustments just to make them wearable, forget about comfort and fit. Needless to say clothes and fashion were never an area that interested me, and to be honest it showed. David Coffin started his shirt sew-a-long posing the question; do you remember a favorite shirt? I did. It was a cream colored linen shirt. I loved how I felt when I wore it. It was retired when the kids came along due to its impracticality, and finally lost over the years, I remembered how it felt to look in my closet, and see that shirt, and slip it on, and wear it all day. It just made my day better. That is what I wanted for my new wardrobe. I wanted to open the closet door, and feel the excitement, and pleasure that comes with wearing something you truly treasure. No one manufactures these clothes. I cannot afford to have someone else design and make them for me.
So here goes, my Sew-A-Long Seasonal Wardrobe, is about bringing excitement and pleasure back to clothing for me. Again I turned to the internet to find the styles that I could get excited to wear. That is when I discovered Lagenlook. It is a German word, which means a layered look, and it has been a popular look in Europe for some time. To me it is both comfortable and stylish. Layering allows you to mix and match and be creative each time you go to put an outfit together. Now, I was truly getting excited. I still face challenges. My size and shape force me to give extra consideration when choosing items to avoid many common pitfalls. But for the first time, I thought I could open my closet and really like what I saw. What a way to start each day!
Here is what I decided to do for my eight pieces.
1. Structured pair of pants. I have narrowed this down to two patterns. Vogue 8499 by Marci Tilton. Will need considerable re-sizing. Second choice is Burda 7400. Using Linen.
2. Structured skirt – Vogue 8499 by Marci Tilton. Will need considerable re-sizing.
3. Jumper – Still looking for a pattern for this… I want inverted curved seam at bust heading down toward waist, then with hi lo hem mid-calf length. Loose and light so it is easy to layer.
4. Short Cardigan – Simplicity 2183 or McCall’s M6845
5. Boxy Short Jacket – Still choosing between Burda 8108 or Kathleen Chatham’s Jacket pattern found in Singer’s Perfect Plus book or A Little Something Jacket by CNT Pattern Co.
6. Long flowy vest – Choosing between three options: sleeveless version of my self-drafted shirt with, larger arm holes, or McCalls M6084, or Vogue V1375
7. Dress – Inverted rounded seam from breast to waist, shaped hem, or Hot Patterns 1179 Weekender Chameleon Dress
8. Tunic(s) – Multiple lengths – shaped hems. Style Arc Daisy Designer Tunic, Burda 6786,
Extra Credit
9. Short loose vest – wool or linen in McCall’s 2260
Will probably purchase Knit tee shirts for layering, Leggings, Scarves, Pair of shoes – flat, comfortable, all weather. I am not a feminine person in general. Hate make up, and frilly, or fancy stuff, but who knows before this is over I may even buy a necklace.
